![]() I pulled the door panel and the vapor barrier off and applied as much deadener to the door as I could easily and simply. I ended up with ~67.5 sq feet which is more than enough for the car. My roll cost $88.50 to ship, so total cost was US$208.50 for 130 sq feet. Those that can pick up the product in person stand to save the most. If you're shopping around for it, make sure to include shipping costs. The catch is the shipping - this stuff is HEAVY - the ship weight on the roll was 142 lbs. I was able to find a roll on ebay from seller auburndarter for US$120. The MLV I purchased in bulk as well, splitting a 130 sq ft roll with a buddy to save money. One of the important considerations about this layer is that it doesn't retain water so jute and other cheaper open celled alternatives may not be the best if there's any chance of exposure to moisture. I got a big roll for about $20, more than enough for the car. It may not be the best, but this was the one area I figured I could cut costs. ![]() I ended up going with a 3/32" closed cell foam underlay used for flooring from one of the local home improvement big box stores. This is probably a great solution for many but as I was working with a tight budget and as well having concerns about the greater ~3/8" thickness, I chose to source my own decoupler. One has open cell foam, the other closed cell (pro). one of the most popular is second skin's Luxury Liner and LL Pro. As well, if cost isn't as much of a factor, there are composite products available that have the foam and the MLV bonded together already. Lots of options here with closed cell foam generally regarded as the best. The next layer is the decoupler - to isolate the barrier from the sheet metal. I chose to use B-Quiet Ultimate as I found a decent deal on it (50 sq ft on ebay) and applied as much as I could as simply as possible (plus they're a canadian company to boot). There's a great post on where the OP was sorely disappointed in how little a difference in noise reduction resulted after covering everything with deadener: Contrary to popular belief, you DO NOT need to cover everything with this stuff. There are lots of options for deadeners, some more costly than others, but general consensus is that you want to stay away from asphalt based products, like 'peel and seal' as found at home depot etc, and stay with a butyl based product. I wanted to do the job myself and keep it as cheap as possible - cost was a primary factor. The other components are the sound deadeners, (Dynamat, Raamat, eDead, B-Quiet etc), which reduce the resonance in the sheet metal and an isolation layer (normally foam) to decouple the panel from the barrier material, the MLV. Note that the MLV is only part of a soundproofing solution. You can get 1/4" MLV as well at 2lb/sq ft but it's apparently a lot harder to work with and you're probably looking at diminishing returns in any case. On the other hand, if you want to cut the road noise, this is the stuff. If you are a weight weenie and trying to keep your car light, it's not for you. The density of the product is the key and standard 1/8" MLV is usually about 1 lb/sq ft. Lead is what they used to use for a sound barrier but due to the toxicity, you don't see it used much anymore. Mass loaded vinyl is a limp heavy material that is a modern day substitute for lead. I did a lot of research and it all pointed towards using mass loaded vinyl as a barrier material to really cut down on the noise. Definitely not bad but our cars could stand to be a bit quieter - not quite luxury rides from a sound perspective. We use the car regularly for roadtrips and while I only have an axleback right now, I'll be installing a CBE shortly and that, combined with louder tires (Nitto Neo Gens) at higher tire pressures with a stiff suspension setup, leads to a fair bit of noise. So, I've been wanting to make my car quieter inside for a while.
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